"Newbold's Big Day Out" or" how I spent an afternoon in a Turkish Police Stn."

Its our last night in Turkey and tomorrow we either enter Iran or Iraq.   

Today we stopped for lunch in a fairly large town and lots of kids started milling around our bikes while were trying to order some food.  Then some older teens joined them and then some of the kids reported that my tank bag containing my canon camera, zoom lens, good glasses and my leatherman tool had been ripped of the bike.  I spent 4 hours at the police station while they questioned 2 of the kids who finally spilt the beans on one of the older guys.   They tracked him down and arrested him and located my bag, camera and lens; nothing else.  it took hours for the process of filling out forms and charging the crim!  Got to know the guys at the station pretty well.  Undercover guys, all packing serious side arms.  No English at all, but we all had a good time.  One guy rang his sister in Sydney so I could have a talk to someone in English.     At least I have the camera.  The Turkish police did a great job, going to this effort for a camera.  There were about 4 or 5 on the case and got the result in a few hours. 

Earlier in the day we visited the famous rock carvings up on Nestin Yeri.  They date back from the ancient Greeks are at the top of a 2000m mountain.  You'll need to Google for more info

On the ferry across a lake heading to the scene of the crime.

There may be a delay before the next blog as we're not sure of the internet freedom in Iraq or Iran.

Found my Camera!

This is a posting of pics from the other camera, which I just found
.
Casper, the Bully going for a ride with owner, Apo.  Actually I'm not sure who owns whom.

Dave working hard on the net at the Bikers Club.  We can make anywhere look untidy.

Peter, bracing himself for a quick blast across Istanbul behind Apo. It was a rescue mission to collect Ben who had a puncture.

Strange little trams that run along Iskatale Caddesi (sorry about the spelling Kate). Taken while waiting for our Russian visas.

Arrived in Iznik

Nicked!!

Yes, me.  Having my Turkish tidy up.  Haircut, beard trim, every other hair above my neck attended to, then this mask thing to do god knows what, followed by a forehead, neck, face, neck, back and arms massage.  Love a cut-throat razor shave.   Took over an hour for about $12 and included coffee.

Another shot of Goreme.  Our hotel is in mid pic.  $20 per night!

We had Russia, Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan visas to get before we could leave.  We needed  Kaz. first, so went and collected that... easy, only took  5 days!  Rushed around to Turkmen only to be told that they don't open Mondays, come back tomorrow.  jumped on the bikes and headed into Istanbul to the Russian embassy.  We're getting the hang of Turkish motorcycling.  Many a emergency only lane, many a footpath, pass on left or right, not to mention Ben and I using the exit ramp on the freeway to get to the correct offshoot. Been clipped by a few cars, taxis and busses, but we've clipped a few of them as well.  Pete used to hate riding in Melbourne or Sydney.  He'll never be nervous again.
Mehmet at the bikers club helped us with all sorts of issues.   Helped Ben chase down parts from his lavish office.

Tailan (Taylan?) , in the camo, ran the workshop with Apo and helped us out of all sorts of jams, including riding across to the other side of Istanbul to help Ben who had a flat.  Peter went on the back of Apo's bike and came back hours later, looking years older.

Russian embassy was closed! Come back tomorrow.  Went to Turkmen, had to write a reason for the visit. The guy (Mr Bean lookalike) gave us the words.   We handed them in.  He corrected our spelling and told us to do it again.   Once we passed that test, he gave us the application form.  It was in Turkmen. so we tried our hardest.  He corrected our spelling with a red pen and failed us again.  This is going on while the small office is full of shouting people from small villages all over central Asia.  Finally passed. I think I got a C+. 
Next day, back to Russia with all our forms.  A great big bear of a Russian took us under his ample wing and got us our visas.  took 4 hour. We collected them and headed for the ferry terminal.  We decided to take the ferry to save hours of peak hour madness to get out of town.  The trip was to Yalova. A 2 hour slow ferry.    Below is our last view of Sultanahmet and the mosques.

We rolled off the ferry and headed to Iznik, recommended by Mehmet.   A bit of freeway, and then a hour or so of wonderful winding roads.   Iznik is a holiday destination for Turks, and like most places we've seen, we're about a month early and they're pretty dead... but nice.  Found a hotel opposite the lake and dragged our heavy gear 2 floors up. Our gear is heavy. 
Next morning, loaded up and headed for Goreme in Cappadocia.

One of the prettiest towns and areas in Turkey, or beyond.  3 of us, not Ben who obviously is younger with quicker reflexes were radared and pulled over a km or so down the road.   We were made to stand around for a while, while they checked who was on each bike and who was who.    About 140lire fines for the 3 of us.  We must go to any bank, tax office or post office to pay our fines. If we pay before 15 days, we get a discount.   We figure a 100% discount is looking more probable.    I did take pics, but seem to have misplaced my little camera.   

Peter, Dave and Ben headed off for a day tour of sites around the area.  Underground cities, cathedrals, old villages etc.  I stayed and did about a 6km walk through the valley, unguided.   I wasn't lost, but for a while I didn't know exactly where I was.  One rock looks very much like another and there were no reference points.

It took me 3 hours to get to this spot to take this pic.   From here back to the hotel took 14 minutes, including having a fresh orange drink.   Found a nice little BMW to restore.   Couldn't find the owner, so I'll have to let it go.

Off now to do a bit of washing, check to oil and chain on the bike and maybe a haircut and neck massage at the barbers. 
We head off east tomorrow morning with probably 2 or 3 nights left in Turkey before Iran.   We've met a few other riders heading east by different routes, but will probably meet up at some stage.

Trapped in Paradise

After sitting around all of Wednesday waiting foran email of our Letter of Introduction to Russia, and it not turning up before the Russians took a 4 day weekend, we decided that for our sanity we should get the heck oot of Istanbul and ride south to the Galipoli peninsular for 3 or 4 days.  Ben and Peter had the desire to visit the battle sites. took the back road along the Sea of Marmara.

 Myself and Peter Hickey.

It was our first section of dirt, about 15km of pretty rough stuff. mainly shart large rocks sticking out of the gravel. Finally saw a sign to the town of Gellibolu at the top of the penninsular. Myself with Peter and Ben.

Another hour or so and we were having our first Efes Pilsen in Eceabat at the Crowded House backpackers.   Hot showers, sit down loos and a full breakfast, all for about $17 each.   Wandered down later, found a good seafood restaurant and had our fill. our bikes were secure down a lane where the owner of Crowded House parked his BMW to block our bikes in.

Dave and I headed off next morning and crossed to Cankkale by ferry for the ride to Erdek, as it looked good on the map.  We were in no rush and hoped it was a nice fishing village.

It probably was a lovely fishing village in the '70s, but now a large tourist town for Turks. Found a nice pension right on the water and settled in. Wifi only in summer!  Towels, never, and the showers were cold in the morning, and it cost more than Crowded House! The coast was geat and the sunset over the Marmara, fasntastic.  Another healthy seafood feast. Asked for some beers and had them served in coffee cups.  No license I guess.

Stopped for a pide at this fine roadhouse.   Thinking of opening a chain back in Oz.

 We rode on to Bandirma and decided to take a ferry back to Istanbul.  My clutch was slipping under acceleration, so thought saving the bike as well as saving money, best to take the ferry.  Its been costing about 110 lire to fill the tank, about $60, and ferry cost 87 lire. 

Arrived after dark, and even with GPS got hopelessly lost. I recall seeing Dave peel of the freeway with me 3 lanes over!   Dave got to the Istanbuli Bikers a good hour before me. Thank god for my meds!  I spent an hour, no more than 2 km from the club, but with so any new major roads, I couldn't get there. I knew that I was close. I kept being on the wrong side of the river or railway line.  When I finally found it, Dave was holding out a cold Efes for me. 

Got up this morning (Sunday, Happy Mothers Day, Joan) and started to strip the clutch cover off.  No rush, so did it slow and hopefully right.

 Fixing the pannier rack that was damaged in the great Istanbul Footpath Incident.  Managed to find a suitible and correctly shaped piece of firewood from next door's bakery.

The Istanbuli Bikers are a great bunch of guys. We'll be staying here for a few days and couldn't be more welcome.  True bikers who will help fellow travellers and expect nothing but friendship. an added bonus is Casper the biul Bull Terrier.  Much cleaner than when I first saw him, and as friendly as Hank or Jazz. Love him!!

Istanbuli Bikers

Arrived in Istanbul at peak hour ( its always peak hour) and took about 2 hours to cover around 15km. Lane swaping for no reason, panniers nudged if I'm in their way.    But found our way to the hostel with only minor damage to both our bikes.  I got hung up on a bollard, dragged me down and bent my pannier frame ( not broke it Dave, welds held up fine!).  Dave stopped to unhook me, his bike rolled off the side stand and we were both blocking the footpath, which we were riding down to dodge a traffic jam.  Untangled, we rode on to the hostel.  Felt good about being able to ride into the centre of a 16 million people town and find the hostel with no map or GPS.
Food here is fantastic, whether from a 'hole in the wall' or cafe.  This is just up the street from where my daughter Kate and husband Kris used to live, and was a favourite of Kate's.

Galata Tower. Built as a fire lookout, but burnt down unfortunately.   Next day, Ben and Peter arrived after their tour of lower Europe. Peter lurking in the shadows before he knew we were there.

With 4 in the room, things became a little messy..............................................

Next morning we all mounted up and rode about 18km out to meet the Istanbuli Bikers.  These guys have a clubhouse and workshop for locals and travellers.  Made us very welcome and assisted with visa info. We were invited to join them for the afternoon and camping overnight in the forest by the sea, but we couldn't join them.

Mehmet who runs the club made us very welcome and we met some Russian travellers who gave us a business card and said if we have any trouble in any sizeable Russian town 'give me a call, I know people who know people who will be able to sort and problem you have'.   we may need Dmitry at some stage.  Met a couple of nice dogs, a bullie named Casper.  Not all that clean, but they had been for a swim.

One of many mosques,  Yeni Camii,

 through the sea mist that rolled in.

Fairly typical meal for less than $10.   Good, fresh and tasty.

Wandered down to the Grand Bazzar, but it was late in the arvo and we were all tiring.

Trudged back to the hostel, a quiet drink and out for a meal.  Next day we venture back to Sultanahmet to revisit vist the Bazaar which we found closed and headed to the Ayasofya museaum and Blue Mosque, followed by a visit to the ancient cistern, a huge underground water storage.

We hopped the tram for the trip home, as tomorrow was going to be a busy visa getting day.

Next morning we got up early and headed out got up early for the visa run.  First to Tajikistan. Helpful bloke. Hand over all the paperwork, go to the nearest bank to pay our $40US fees and received our visas and Pamir Permits.   

 Next off to Kazakhstan.   The forms we downloaded from the net the night before were obselete.     Fill out the new forms, hand over all the paperwork and old matey says very nicely, ' you can collect NEXT Monday.   To make things worse, we can't get our Uzbekistan until we get our Kazak 'cos they need to make sure that we don't want to settle down in Uzbek and start new lives.   Uzbek visas take a week, but we can pick them up in Iran on the way through.  Dave and Ben are presently trying to get the info for our Russian visas and Dave's off to the Oz consulate to sort a problem of having too few blank pages left in his passport.   istanbul is a great city, one of the best, but we've had enough and want to be on the road.  Very frustating to say the least.

Ben, Peter and I went to the local hammam for a Turkish Bath to soothe the bodies and mind.   It was only locals, building has been there in one form or another since 540ad.   we saunaed, were scrubbed, massaged and sent home feeling a bit compensated for the lousy day at the the embassies.

This blog is brought to you by the generousity of Dave Morley, without who's computer I'd be stuffed.    Clicking on the pics should enlarge them.

Greece Customs

Arrived in Athens and quickly found a reasonably priced hotel and dumped our gear and headed for a well earned drink, to be followed by a meal.   Athens is a wonderful city, but a city of boarded up shops.  Sunday was spent looking around and climbing to the Acropolis to see how the renovations are coming along.

Next day we head down to Pireas to the shipping agent in hope that our bikes may be ready for collection.     No such luck, but 'come back tomorrow and they may be ready'.   Next day picked up the paperwork and grabbed a taxi out to the Customs Office. After being bounced between 6 different staff, finally a guy took pity and started to assist but said it would be near to impossible to get our bikes as the next day was May 1 and a public holiday, so we may have to return on Thursday.  He then bounced us again and I told her that the bikes didn't need an inspection because they were on carnets and the slow process started again.  Lots of rubber stamps and off to the bond store to collect and assemble the bikes in the heat of the day.   It was too late and we were to tired to leave athens that night, so back to the reasonally priced hotel.

Next morning left Athens with fully loaded bikes (see above) and headed north towards Thesolonika and then to the first beachside village/town we could find.  After about 8 hours on the road and covering around 600km we once again found some cheap digs and headed of for a drink and feed by the beach.

Next day was a similar distance to Istanbul.  The first few hours were great. Air was cool and the sun bright.  Crossing into Turkey was pretty painless, only about an hour and a half and we rode into the fisrt Turkish village for our first fabulous Turkish meal.  The first of many.    From that point it turned nasty.  First a 20 knot head and side wind that had us leaning our bikes into it. Hard work for us and the bikes.   When we were about 20km out of central Istanbul the traffic came to a halt and became stop start for the next 2 or more hours.   

We located the hostel and lugged all our gear up the stairs.  A good meal and early to bed. Next morning we walked around doing some 'housework'. Had to get my pannier bag stitched where I caught it up on a stell post while trying to ride down a footpath to save time.  Looking for the correct batteries for my spottracker so I can get it going and some other mechanical stuff.