Sunday, 30 June 2013

Kyrgyzstan..............Land of contrasts

A free 'at the border' visa and a fairly easy entry into Kyrgyzstan.     The contrast from one side of the border to the next was amazing.  Before the border, roads were rubbish, countryside fairly dry with a few herds of goats and horses being shepherded around by mainly young kids.   After we crossed the border we climber up the Arka Alaj Mtn. Range on a very good road.  Possibly designed by a motorcyclist.   Almost new and probably paid for by China or some other country's assistance.  But like most big projects in this part of the world, parts were already failing.   You'd be cruising along at a good healthy rate of knots on a good stretch of asphalt, fly around a bend and find 100 metres of rough gravel road. 
 We travelled on to Osh where we stayed at a pretty good hotel.   Ben and Peter sent up their tents as there was only one room available, and as I had been down a few times and a bit tender, they decided it was the right thing to do.    Thanks!
We were wondering about finding a repair shop for my bike as I had no front guard and the handlebars and wheel were not pointing in the same direction, when one of the other motorcycle riding guests said that there was an XT600 specialist in town, and that he'd take us out next morning.   It was a Swiss guy who rents them out for tours.   So the bike had an oil change, forks almost straightened, new chain guard fitted, new chain roller whittled out of an old piece of rubber and fitted and a flash blue front guard which appears to be off a later model XT.   We left on the third morning, Dave and I taking the asphalt and the Hickeys taking to the dirt again.    The plan was to meet in Almaty, Kazakhstan in about 3 or 4 days.  
As Dave and I were riding out of town, my switchblock started issuing smoke and the unmistakable smell of burning loom.   The traffic was hell and I put my bike out of harms way and started to strip it down.   Disconnected the switchblock and luckily, the ignition circuit had not been affected.     Dave had backtracked by failed to see me and headed off towards Kyrgyzstan.  The usual way to get to Bishkek from Osh is via Uzbekistan and that's what Garmin tried to force us to do.  But we both persisted and after being lost many times, found the correct route north.      Luckily Dave and I have done enough ks together that we both headed off knowing we'd meet somewhere along the road.   A few hours later I stopped at another charming roadside eatery for some meat on a stick and a coke and within 20 minutes Dave was helping me eat it.

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Nice front guard.   Dave says that I must keep it on when we get home.   Lemming's rule!

 The asphalt was good.   Scenery and roads where well up to scratch.  We were  riding through the high plains, about 2000m with a couple of spectacular 3000m+  passes.       Not one car or truck hesitates to overtake another while heading towards you.   Being forced into the gravel verge becomes a part of you day.
 The area is famous for its horses which are herded by nomads and rented out for rides into the foothills.  
 The 3586m pass at Alou Pass.  
 Bishkek was just out of our reach so stayed at a Soviet inspired hotel.  Very 'charming'.  I'm sure it was still bugged.   Headed onto Bishkek, a quite nice, modernish and clean town.   By luck, we found a great Turkish restaurant and had one of the best Turkish meals I've had.  The owner was from Adana.   Dave said that he must be on the run to be this far east.
Removed the switchblock. Thought I may be able to sort out the mess but finally at Dave's insistence, we just hard wired the headlight and put the bike together.   No one here uses blinkers and my horn wasn't too loud anyway, that's another thing to fix when I get home.

We left Bishkek and headed towards Kazakhstan, Almaty and the Hickeys.

2 comments:

  1. A XT600 specialist in the middle of Kyrgystan!? The Yamaha-gods must be with you.

    cheers,

    Huub

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  2. Hi Paul. Well, I am real proud of you mate, you are doing well and it seems having some fun. You must write a proper book when its all over. Keep your spirits up. God bless, Chris and Jan in England.

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