On to Iraq

After the episode at the police station we head south towards the Syrian border where Dave and Peter turned left to continue through Turkey while Ben and I headed to the Turkey/Iraq border.   Getting out of Turkey took some time while they checked all the bike details.  The bikes take as long to clear the crossing as we do.   The Turkish border guards were very curious to why we would willingly enter Iraq.   Their final words were 'good luck'.

the Iraqis were just as curious, as they don't get too many Aussies on motorcycles wishing to ride through. We were given strict instructions not to enter Mosel, as they still bombing folk there.  The country side was dry and empty, but beautiful and mountainous.  Good ambush country if you were that way inclined.   We've become oblivious to young guys carrying AK47s, 72s or whatever the current version is.  All I know is that the AK47 doesn't have the folding stock.

we rode on and got to the capital of the region, Erdine.  Well at least that's how its spelt on some signs.   Booked into a weird hotel, stepped over the road for another kebap/kerbab, had a few beers and hit the sacks.

Next morning we went to the centre of town to see the famous citadel which is the longest inhabited building in the middle east.  It was closed for renos, but they've kept one family in there to save its reputation.

The nice policeman let us park our bikes on the traffic island.  He was proud of his bike and gladly posed for a pic.

We left town and headed back up into the mountains to head for the Iran border.  The days we were there were the worst death tally by bombs for quite a while but we nothing of it.  the people were very friendly and interest in our travels.  We stopped for a snack at an out of the place roadside café and the staff were convinced we were filming a travel doco..  They wanted their pic taken.

One of the many important road signs not to get wrong!   While I was taking this pic, a guy pulled up and demanded to see my passport.   A cop he said.  Show me your badge says I.   Give me your passport says he.   etc, etc.   Finally he drives away.  I don't think he was a cop!

As we approached the border we started to see huge lines of fuel carrying trucks lined up ready to enter Iran to bring petrol out.  The embargo is broken in a very small way.

It took ages to get out of Iraq.   Much harder than getting in!  More young conscripts with AKs and endless form filling out.  Then it took even longer to get into Iran.   They just don't get tourism at all.  You spend hours at the border and not even a drink of water is to had, and its about 40 deg.

Ben and I then road towards Mahabad where we were to meet Dave and Peter.  Ben and I got there on dark and proceeded to find a reasonably priced hotel.   every time we stop for a chat a huge crowd gathers to question us.... where are you from?  What is your name?   Do you like Iran?  How old are you?..... on and on.   One young guy said he'd lead us to a hotel on his push bike.  Ben and I had trouble keeping up with him.  We started booking in and he left, only to return 30 min. later and told us to follow him.   Eventually we ended up at his home and were showed upstairs to meet grandma and younger brother.  many cups of tea later we realized that we were staying there.   ben went out and strangely enough found Peter and Dave and brought them back.  Iranian home don't have that much furniture. We ate on the floor in the lounge on a table cloth.   Cups of tea and fruit kept coming until we had to beg them to stop

  

Next morning we tried to leave and felt a little rude not to have stayed longer.   As we were packing our bikes in the lane a crowd started gathering and we had trouble getting our packing done.  We were finally almost ready to leave when the Mahabad TV news team arrived. Dave, Pete and Ben slunk away and I was the spokesperson for the Australian bike team.  Usual questions.... where are you from  etc  and then the 'weren't you put of coming here because of all the US propaganda?   Do you believe the propaganda?  I said that I didn't believe all the propaganda and probably ruined any chance of ever visiting the US again.

The crowd started to build. In the centre of this pic, a man can be seen 'holding' my jacket for me. There was over $400US in the inside pocket, but I was uncorncerned.  The people were fantastic.

 We rode on with the plan of making the Caspian Sea by nightfall but the travelling was slow and eventually bike started to miss and fart and finally stop.   Every Iranian is a mechanic or has a brother who is one.   Everybody wants to help. every switch is being switched. Every lever is being levered. Luckilly it fired up and  I limped on until we found a state run hotel.  We turned the carpark into a junk pile and did some maintenance.  Water in the carby.   Drained and everything was fine.

The country in north western Iran is spectacular.  Mountains up to around 2200m and then a fast decent to the Caspian through a lush forest.

We had a paddle and a play by the Caspian before our final push to Tehran.  Iranians must be the friendliest people on the planet. 

 A.family we met at the beach.  Where are you from?    etc.  etc.

Next stop Tehran.   Sorry about the delay but Iran has stopped a lot of internet because of the upcoming election.   we were lucky to be allowed in the country.   They don't want foreigners in there at the moment.